The relationship is governed by the principle of Thermal Relaxation Time (TRT): the diameter of the hair determines how quickly it loses heat, which dictates the necessary pulse width. In practice, thicker hair requires a longer pulse width, while finer hair requires a shorter pulse width to ensure the follicle is destroyed without burning the surrounding skin.
Core Takeaway To destroy a hair follicle, you must heat it faster than it can cool down. Because thicker hairs hold heat longer, they can be treated with slower, longer pulses that spare the skin; conversely, fine hairs cool rapidly and demand quick, short bursts of energy to be effective.
The Mechanics of Heat and Hair Diameter
Thermal Relaxation Time (TRT) Defined
The central concept here is Thermal Relaxation Time (TRT). This is the specific amount of time it takes for an object (in this case, a hair shaft) to lose 50% of the heat it has absorbed.
Diameter Dictates Cooling Speed
The diameter of the target is the primary factor in calculating TRT. Just as a thick log holds heat longer than a thin twig, thicker hair shafts cool down much more slowly than fine hair shafts.
The Balancing Act
The goal of laser hair removal is selective photothermolysis. The laser pulse must be long enough to heat the follicle thoroughly, but short enough that the heat does not have time to spread to the surrounding tissue.
Optimizing for Hair Texture
Strategy for Coarse (Thick) Hair
Because thick hair has a longer TRT, it retains heat well. Therefore, you should use a longer pulse width.
This extended duration allows the energy to soak into the entire follicle structure uniformly. Crucially, a longer pulse width is generally safer for the skin, as it delivers energy more gradually.
Strategy for Fine (Thin) Hair
Fine hair has a very short TRT, meaning it dissipates heat almost instantly. To treat it, you must use a short pulse width.
If the pulse width is too long, the hair will cool down while the laser is still firing. The heat will dissipate into the skin rather than building up to a lethal temperature within the follicle.
The Critical Safety Factor: Protecting the Epidermis
Differential Cooling
Safety relies on the difference between the TRT of the hair and the TRT of the epidermis (skin surface). The goal is to set a pulse width that is longer than the skin's cooling time but shorter than the hair's cooling time.
How Long Pulses Save Skin
When treating thick hair with a long pulse, the laser fires for an extended duration (e.g., 10ms to 400ms). During this time, the epidermis is able to dissipate the heat it absorbs, keeping it safe.
However, because the thick hair holds heat (high TRT), it continues to accumulate thermal energy until the follicle is destroyed. This allows for effective treatment with minimal risk of surface burns.
Understanding the Trade-offs
The Risk of Pulses That Are Too Short
If you use a very short pulse on thick, coarse hair, you risk delivering too much energy too quickly. This can cause the hair shaft to vaporize or "snap" at the surface without destroying the deeper regenerative structures, leading to regrowth. It also spikes the temperature of the epidermis, increasing the risk of burns.
The Risk of Pulses That Are Too Long
If you use a long pulse on fine hair, the treatment becomes ineffective. The fine hair acts like a radiator, releasing the heat into the surrounding nerve endings and tissue as fast as it absorbs it. This results in unnecessary pain for the patient and collateral tissue heating without actually killing the follicle.
Making the Right Choice for Your Goal
Achieving permanent hair reduction requires adjusting settings based on the specific anatomy of the hair being treated.
- If your primary focus is treating thick, coarse hair: Prioritize a longer pulse width. This matches the hair's slow cooling time to destroy the root while allowing the skin surface to cool and remain safe.
- If your primary focus is treating fine, thin hair: Prioritize a shorter pulse width. You must deliver energy quickly to damage the follicle before the heat dissipates.
- If you are balancing safety and efficacy: Aim for a pulse width that is equal to or slightly shorter than the hair's Thermal Relaxation Time to maximize damage to the follicle while minimizing spread to the dermis.
Precision lies in timing: heat the target only as long as it takes to destroy it, and not a millisecond longer.
Summary Table:
| Hair Type | Diameter & TRT | Recommended Pulse Width | Treatment Goal |
|---|---|---|---|
| Coarse/Thick | High TRT (Slow Cooling) | Longer Pulse Width | Deep follicle destruction while sparing the epidermis |
| Fine/Thin | Low TRT (Fast Cooling) | Shorter Pulse Width | High-intensity energy burst before heat dissipates |
| Skin Safety | Surface Cooling | Variable | Ensure pulse duration allows skin to dissipate heat |
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By choosing our advanced Diode Laser Systems or Pico Lasers, you gain the ability to perfectly match Thermal Relaxation Time for both fine and coarse hair, ensuring maximum efficacy and patient safety. Beyond hair removal, our portfolio includes CO2 Fractional lasers, Nd:YAG, HIFU, Microneedle RF, and body sculpting solutions like EMSlim and Cryolipolysis.
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References
- T. Michaud, B Tack. Épilation par laser ou par lampe polychromatique pulsée. DOI: 10.1016/s0151-9638(09)72542-6
This article is also based on technical information from Belislaser Knowledge Base .
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